Zips, zippers, zippers and all the hullabaloo

Posted by Caroline Ouellet on Mar 17, 2023

How hard is it to find your way into the world of zips?

Let's try to do a quick overview of the main general-purpose zips.

The brand

The most common in Canada are probably the YKK... But there are many other zipper manufacturers and as there are no universal standards, each zipper from one company to another will not have exactly the same characteristics, even if it is nicknamed by the same material and the same size code.

So first rule to learn: If you are looking to repair a zipper, look for the slider of the same brand to make sure it is compatible.

The materials

We are talking here about the material used to make the chain (spiral), and not the ribbon that supports it. There are 3 types:

Nylon spiral (or polyester)

It is the most common of all zippers. More economical and very versatile. It is found in all colors, types, models and sizes.

Molded plastic

YKK promotes zippers under the VISLON trademark. It is made up of injected plastic elements, such as polyacetal resin. It's lighter than metal zippers of the same size and comes in a multitude of different colors. They can be used for different purposes but are not recommended for travel bags, suitcases, shoes and boots.

Metal

The first zipper was created in metal. There are different metallic compounds that offer a range of colors and finishes. These are very strong closures for projects with thicker fabrics, such as jackets, coats, bags, boots, jeans, etc...

Functions

Closed toe		Closed end
Separable 1 way		One Way Separating
Double separable slider		Two Way Separating
Double slider Non-separable		Two Way Non-Separating
Two-way non-separable head		Two Way Non-Separating head to head
Invisible hidden spiral		Invisible & Hidden coil

The components and their codes

The slider is made up of the actual slider which does the job of opening or closing the teeth of the chain and the zipper pull.

Chain size

Identified by a number between #2 and #10, including #2.5 and can also be even larger than #10 for zippers for very specific or decorative uses.

Remember that regardless of the size code, the actual width of the chain will vary from one material to another... and from one manufacturer to another!

Tooth width (mm)		#2	#3	#4	#5	#6	#8	#9	#10
Metal	from ~	2.5	3.9	4.9	5.5	6.3	7.2	8.7	10
Metal	to ~	3.85	4.8	5.4	6.2	7	8	9.2	10.6
Coil	from ~	2.5	3.9	4.9	5.5	6.3	7.2	8.7	10
Coil	to ~	3.85	4.8	5.4	6.2	7	8	9.2	10.6
Plastic	from ~	3.9	4.9	5.5	6.3	6.3	7.2	8.7	10
Plastic	to ~	4.8	5.4	6.2	7	7	8	9.2	10.6

We consider that:

	Light	AVERAGE	Heavy
Metal	#3	#5	#10	Metal
Nylon Coil	#2.5	#3 #5	#7	Nylon spiral
Molded plastic		#5	#10	Plastic
	light	Medium	Heavy

Recommended uses:

#2.5 Closed Toe Nylon	Skirts, dresses, pants, reusable bags
#2.5 Separable Nylon	Backless bustiers
#2.5 Nylon Double separable slider	Jackets and sweaters
#2.5 Invisible Nylon Closed Toe	Skirts, dresses, pants, reusable bags, light weight fabrics, loose fit clothing that will not create tension on the zipper
#5 Separable Nylon	Jackets and sweaters
#5 Closed toe plastic	Sportswear, fashion clothing, pockets, sweater necklines
#5 Separable Plastic	Sportswear, coats and jackets
#10 Plastic, double separable slider	Sportswear, outerwear coats and jackets
#3 Metal Closed Toe	Skirts, pants, jeans, pockets
#5 Metal Closed Toe	Skirts, pants, jeans, pockets, fashion clothing
#5 Separable metal	Sportswear, outerwear coats and jackets
#5 Two-way non-separable nylon	Handbags, totes

Here are the YKK zipper size codes to help you recognize them:

Spiral

2CF
3CF
45CF
5CI
8CF
10CF

VISLON (Plastic)

3VS

4VS

5VS

10VF

15VF

Metal

Cursor codes

Usually, you will find the size of the corresponding chain on the back of the slider. You will also find the manufacturer's logo there. Finally, you can spot the cursor code. There are so many that it is impossible to compile a complete list. Also sometimes the cursor will have no information to help you identify it.

Slider Materials

Zinc Alloy	D	zinc alloy
Brass	G	Brass
Brass Heavy Duty	K	Heavy Duty Brass
Nylon	NOT	Nylon
Stainless	S	Stainless
PBT (Poly Butylene Terephthalate)	T	PBT (Poly Butylene Terephthalate)

Cursor functions

F not lockable	F Non-Iock
C Cam-Iock	C Cam-Iock
N Notch	N Notch-lock
An automatic lock	A Automatic Iock
s Semi-automatic locking	s Semi-Automatic Iock
D Double traction Notch-lock	D Double pull Notch-lock
w Double pull Non-lockable	w Double sweater Non-Iock
X Automatic double pull lock	X Double pull Auto-Iock
R Reversible lock without notch	R Reversible No/Notch Iock
u Reversible Automatic	u Reversible Automatic
K Key	K Key-Iock
z Finger lock	z Finger-lock